Ritsurin Koen Gardens is rated as one of Japan's finest gardens and is highly recommended for a visit when in Takamatsu, the main city on Shikoku Island in Japan's Inland Sea.
Like many Japanese gardens it features mainly water, rock, pruned pine trees, azalea, camellia and deciduous trees for spring or autumn. Man-made features like bridges, pavilions and tea-houses are artfully placed for maximum optic value. This garden may not have many flowers (with the exception of Lotus and Iris), but it is extraordinarily pretty in whichever season you visit and will infuse the visitor with a sense of calm and well-being.
It took around 100 years to build and was finally completed in 1745, being used as a villa and garden by eleven successive family lords. In 1868 when the feudal system was replaced with western style democracy, ownership of the gardens was transferred to the local government and the gardens opened up the public.
Ritsurin is one of the best examples of large stroll gardens from the Edo Period (1600 to 1868) and a perfect place to enjoy the Japanese aesthetic.
It consists of 13 artificial hills, six spring-fed ponds and uses the 'borrowed view' of the misty, pine-clad Mount Shiun as a backdrop. Pathways wind and meander throughout as each bend of the footpath reveals another facet, another combination of rock, tree or mountain. Take time to look at all the rock arrangements as they are a famous part of the garden.
Also marvel at the 1,400 pine trees, many over 300 years old, though most would be no more than five metres high. They have been pruned regularly using the Niwaki technique of removing the new growth 'candles', along with adding weights and restraining wires to shape the boughs thereby accentuating the natural cloud-like shapes and restricting overall growth.
The end result is beautiful, with some avenues of Black Pines making a basket-ribbed canopy of total delight. The story goes that the cloud pruning style originated in order to provide the gods with an easy ladder to descend to earth and a rock will often be placed at the foot of the tree as the final step.
These are large gardens by Japanese standards, covering over 75 hectares and require around two hours minimum to enjoy to the full, if not more. There are boat trips in large punts where passengers wear woven reed hats making one picture postcard after another for the visitors on shore. It is also possible to hire a kimono to walk in and a handicrafts museum provides opportunity to see your souvenir being hand-made.
There are two elevated viewing spots south of the East Gate - these two man-made hills are excellent vantage points from which to look down over the garden's most prominent lakes and bridges.
Ritsurin has been hailed as a National Treasure of Japan and has been awarded three stars by Michellin. It is well geared to tourists so even on busy days it is possible to find a quieter path to enjoy the zen.
Author: Bob Saunders.
It is easy to purchase tickets from the vending machine at the gate, and the welcome center has umbrellas, walking sticks, wheel chairs, and other items they can loan out to visitors.
There are ample toilets within the park and places to buy food or drinks as well.
Ritsurin Koen is conveniently situated two kilometers south of Takamatsu Station and Takamatsu Castle. it is most easily accessed by train.
By Japan Railways
Take a local train from JR Takamatsu Station in the direction of Tokushima to Ritsurinkoen-Kitaguchi Station (5 minutes, 210 yen, 2 trains per hour). From there, the park's north gate can be reached in a five minute walk.
Toll parking is also available.