Waddesdon Manor is a flambouyant, Victorian era, mock 16th century French Chateau in the style most commonly seen in the Loire Valley. It is set in 200 acres of hilltop parklands and gardens around 6 miles from Aylesbury.
Many will visit for a chance to see inside the house, though this review is focussed only on the gardens, which are a significant attraction in their own right, though not perhaps achieving the ultimate pinnacle of 'Greatest British Garden'.
It was built by a combination of vast quantities of Rothschilds banking dynasty money and a keen interest in horticulture by the patriarch, Baron Ferdinand. Essentially a bare hilltop was transformed by 100 gardeners, who sliced the top off the hill, imported hundreds of mature trees, installed piped water from Ayelsbury and many miles of roads and paths to link the various precincts together.
The landscaping was designed by Elie Laine and features extensive use of statuary that is reminiscent of many Italian gardens, though 'the Baron' had most made fresh to order, so unlike the Boboli and Borghese Gardens, these statues have no bits missing !
As a piece of overall garden design, we think it lacks flow, though the separate elements have plenty of individual merit.
The most spectacular is the Parterre immediately behind the rear terrace with accompanying views across rolling parklands and distant Berkshire countryside. This is a Parterre with 'attitude', created with the biggest and boldest brushstrokes of rich colour made up of around 20,000 plants and is amongst the most powerful to be seen anywhere in the world. The showy central fountains designed in Italy in 1700 help set the floral beds off well while revealing the owners admiration of Napoleon Bonaparte's tastes at the Palace of Versailles.
Alongside the Parterre is an extraordinary flower carpet that changes each year to reflect items of art on display in the house. On the year of this reviewer's visit the intricate pattern paid homage to the Savonnerie carpet and represents an extraordinary level of skill and plantsmanship.
The Parterre and Carpet terrace lead to broad stone steps down past Marqueyssac style 'pom-pom' boxes to rolling lawns that are perfect for strolling and picnics with a stunning backdrop of Buckinghamshire countryside. From here paths wind in all directions, some meander through woodlands, while others lead through Daffodil Valley towards the Aviary and Rose Garden.
Most arresting is the Aviary, resplendent in green and gold paint, another element designed to make an impact and display the extent of the family's wealth. Although caging birds is not as acceptable as it was in Victorian times, the family trust engage in breeding programmes of rare birds and the floral beds in front are again fambouyant to provide plenty of material for the visitor's camera.
The Rose Garden is sizeable and well stocked thanks to David Austin, though when viewed in mid August was looking rather tired and really needs a solid structure like a 'Rotunda' to provide physical substance.
The National Trust have adapted the grounds to maximise visitor enjoyment providing extensive play areas for children and other attractions like galleries and museum in various outbuildings along with restaurant and cafe facilities. The result is a rewarding day out for all members of the family and disabled access is very good with extensive surfacing of paths for easy access.
It seems churlish to be critical as the Rothschilds have created something quite spectacular and then bequeathed it to the nation, but I do think they have missed a trick in not including some more water features, especially a long lake or watercourses in the long entrance to the house. And finally I can't review without mentioning the appalling taste involved in the twin wine bottle sculptures at the end of the approach drive. Yes, they own Chateau Mouton de Rothschild, but a pile of empty bottles to remind us? Oh, please.
Author: Bob Saunders.
Car Parking: Extensive, set some way away from the house. Shuttle bus delivers visitors within 100m of the house. N.B. There are four electric vehicle charging posts provided in the carpark (well done Waddesdon).
Disabled Access: Disabled parking close to the ticket hall and easy access shuttle bus for wheelchairs. Wheelchairs are available for use but limited in numbers - phone in advance to book. N.B. carers are admitted free.
Refreshments: Various eateries on-site including a formal restaurant, coffee shop and snackbar offering light meals and take-aways for picnic.
Shops: Again various including a typically good National Trust shop as well as a Wine Shop alongside.
Car: For sat nav please use postcode HP18 0JH the entrance is via Silk
Street. Allow 1.5 hours from London or Birmingham.
Rail: Regular trains from London Marylebone to Aylesbury with a free shuttle bus Waddesdon timed for the popular arrivals and departures.
Bus: Red Rose Travel bus no 16/17 runs from Aylesbury to Waddesdon village.
Taxi: Alpha Taxis: 07949 903577.
Bicycle: Aylesbury Vale Parkway station makes it easier to travel to Waddesdon by bike. From the station turn left onto the A41 towards Bicester - this is a busy road, with no designated cycle lane. Follow the A41 into the village of Waddesdon, approx six miles. Waddesdon Manor main entrance is just past the Five Arrows hotel on your left-hand side. When you arrive, please follow the signs to the car park, to arrange your gardens admission.